Chain-stitch sewing-machine.



A. H. DE voE CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED .IAN-31| 1908. I 1,151,513. Patented Aug. 24,'1915.:

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IIIII `l 1 75' 76 y' l v h 87 37 I 89 J6 176 7 A. H. DE VUE. CHAINSTITCH SEWING MACHINE.

A I APPLICATION FILED )ANAS-I. 1908- I 1,151.513. Patented Aug. 24,19152 4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

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CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINE l 155 idf @534i The character of themovement which I 'pi-eter to give to the looper is one of reciprocationin. a slightly curved patli substantially-upon the. needle-loop seizingside of the needle but extending from a point in advance ot' the needlepath forwardly in an iiiitially rather abrupt curvein the generaldirection of feed of the fabric and at-a slight inclination theretotoward the looppresenting side of the needle, and the loopseizingmovements of the looper are preter- .ably derived from looper-actuatingmecha- -iiisni constituting a modification ot that of the wellknownSinger No. single-chainstitcli' "iiiacliine represented in the 1UnitedStatespatentl to P. Diehl and lV. R. Honghton, No. 579,223, dated March23, 189i', while the side-wise looper movements for insuring the seizureot' the lower thread are derived from alink connection between acrank-arm upon the looper roc t-shaft and a fixed stud carried by themachine frame. As in the patent referred to, the looper-actuating'mechanism' comprises practically a combina- `tion ottwo pairs oftoggle-levers through .whicli, arranged in successive order, the

louper derives its rocking movements from the main-shait, the efiect ofwhich is to produce rapid operative movements and an intermediate dwellof the looper to hold a' thread-loop distcndcd for the subsequentdescent of the needle through the same. The present toggle mechanismdiffersfron'i that of said prior patent in that. whereas the formerconstruction includes one toggle in which'thc pivotal connection ot' theconi-y ponent members crosses an imaginary line Joining the fulcra ottheir opposite ends. and

the pivotal connection of the members of thesecond toggle approaches butdoes not cross such imaginary connecting line between their oppositeends, according to the presentimprovement both togglcs are alike, inthat the pivotal connection ot their coinponeiit members crosses theimaginary line joining the tulcra of their opposite ends,

l and the toggles are connected in such relation that the looperreceives a still longer dwell than that produced by the looperactuatingmechanism ot' the earlier construction.

The present invention includes, iii-addition to the features abovementione( certain others'to be hereinafter described and pointed out inthe appended claims.

taken on the line .1: .c of Fig. 2, looking rearwardly, and Fig. (i asimilar' view upon the same section .line but looking forwardly.`

-the needle in diiierent stages of the stitchforming operation. Fig. 11is a perspective View of the stitch-forming devices. Fig, 12 aperspective view oi the spreadersA acting in conjunction with theloopers. and Fig. 13

, a detached elevation of the lower-thread nipping device. Fig. lil is aperspective view oi one of the thread-nipping members; Fig. 14 is anenlarged iwrspcctive view of one of the loopers. and Fig. 15 is a planof the same showing thc manner ot its initial engagement ot' thclooper-thread. Fig. 1G is a perspia-tive view otl the throat-plate.

Fig4 li' is a perspective view of the' lower side oi the feed-dog.showing the threadguide ingersattached thereto. Fig. 1S is a sectionalelevation and Fig. 1f) a plan of the slack-controller for theneedle-thread'.

The machine is Aconstructed with a trame comprising the usual hed-plate1 and overlianging bracket-arm L in which is iournaled the main-shaft 3having at its rearward end the balance-whwl .land at its forward end thecrank-disk 5 carrying thc crank-pin connected b v means ot' the link 7with the lateral stud Q carried by thc collar 9 fixed upon `theneedle-bar l() which is iournaled in suitiiblc bushings in the forwardportion ot the' bracket-alan and receives through such connections withthe main-shaft its usual reciprocating movements. As herein shown. theneedle-bar is provided with a multiple needle-clamp l1 having socketstol receive the shanks ol the needles 12 which are secured therein bvmeans of'the fastening-screws 1? beneath which are the usualthrciul-gui'ding holes 1i through which theneedle-threads u are led totheir respective needles. .\s herein shown, the needles are spaced atvarying distances apart.

As represented herein` the under side of the bed-plate is provided withfixed vbearing lugs 15 and a movable bearing lug 16 which, with itsslotted foot 17 secured to the bed-l'ilate intermediate the ways 19 bymeans of the screws 1S, forms an adjustable bracket. the bearing lugs 15and 1.6 receiving and carrying the longitudinally arranged looperrock-shaft S20.

'The rock-shaft 20 is provided at its rearward end intermediate thebearing lugs 15 witlna fixed collar 2l having a lateral crankses . armterminating in a. ball 22 embraced by the strap 23 of a short link 24provided at its otherl extremity with a ball 25 which is in turnembraced by a strap 2G at the lower end of a forwardly inclinedvertically adboss 28 upon the iinder side of-the bed-plate. The collar21 is providedv with a second upwardly'extending crank-arm 29 carrying alo ball-crank-pin 30 embraced by a strap 31 at ,one end of a link 32having its opposite end embraced by the forked lower end of an upwardlyextending link33 which is in turn embraced by the forked laterallyextending 15 rocking arm 34 with ixed fulcrum-pin 34",

" sueh'members being connected-together by means of the common pivotalpin 35. The link 33 is forked at its upper end to embrace the lateralarm 37 of a bellcranklever to4 o which it is attached by means of apivotal pin 36, the bellcrank lever having a fixed extending arm '39.The arm 39 is pivotally 2Q. connected lby means of a pin 4() with the y'link-42 'by means' of the common pivotal pin 4.5 and having at its upperend the strap y 46 ,to embracethe actuating crank 47 upon t@ fromthecrank 47 .of the main-shaft throughy the main-shaft 3. As will bereadily seen` the links 41 and l42-constitute a toggle which is actuatedf ,the pitman 44, while the link-members 32 fand v34 constitute alsecondtoggle deriving its actuations from the first-mentioned togv.g'lethrough the bellcrank 37 39 and' link 33'and imparting rocking movementsto the looper-shaft 20 through the pivotal connectionA of the link y32with thecrank-arm 29 ofgthe ixed collar 21. i

""'fPBeferring particularly to Fig. 8, it will Pbe observedthat the lug27 constitutes av `thrust member against which 'the link 24 acts -in thevertical movements ol the crankpin 22 mounted upon the rock-shaft tocause the latter to .have a slight endwise recipro- 5 catory movement asit oscillates through the action of its double toggle connection withthe actuating crank 4(3ot the' inain-sl'iaft.

rl`lie looper rock-shaft carries upon its forward end thelooper-earrier, herein shown i0 comprising a sleeve 4S fixed thereon livmeans of la set-screw 49 and provided with an -upwardly extending arm orplate 50 terminatiiig in a cross-liar 51 formed with an angular grooveor channel. 52 having a fiat fbottoin parallel with the looper-shaft andjustable screw-stud 27 depending from a' `to a suitable inclined seat ofthe cross-liar channel and secured thereto by means ot fastening screws54 is a cap extending forwardlytoward the lip 53 so as to nearly closethe top of the channel and provide in its edge adjacent the lip 53 witha series of spaced open slots adapted each toreceive the shank portion56 of a looper having enlarged lower end 57 with an offset 58 extendingbeneath the lip 53 of the clamp. The Acap constitutesrtlie removablemember of the clamp, serving to removably secure the base of thelooper-shank lirmly in place. while its several slots securely maintainthe loopersin fixed spaced relation each to the others and tothesupporting rocky shaft. fulcrum afforded by a pin 38' mounted withinthe bracket-arm and having an upwardlyY A As represented in Figs. 14 and15, each looper is provided with a blade having conve'rgent Hattenedsides 59 and 60, the former extending nearly straight to the point ofthe needle-loop seizing beak 61,v while the latter i's bulged outwardlyintermediatetlie shank and the beak 61. The top of the looper-blade isformed with a flattened portion/62 over which projects from the for,

ward extremity the backwardlv extending barb or beard 63 which is bothupwardly and laterallyy inclined in the direction of the portion 60..Between lthe open throat of the barb (S3 and the point of the beak 61,upon the same side as the flattened portion l50, is a laterall groove 64adapted to receive the lower thread presented for seizure by the looper,as'represented in Fig. 15` andas will be hereinafter more fullvdescribed.

Attached to the bottom of the cross-bar 51, by means of screhvs 65 arethread-guiding arms 66 corresponding in number with the loopers' andeach provided at its outer end with-a self-threading eye 67 having itsthread-engaging end disposed below and upon the opposite side of itsrespective looper from the needle-path, whereby the'looper threadledjthrough the same upwardly through the needle-hole- 68 in thethroatplate 69 may cross the path of movement'of the barb ($3 ot' thelooper to insure the engagement of the lm/ver thread in the retractionof the looper in withdrawing from the loop of upper or needle-thread` asrepresented particularly in Figs. 11 and V15.

As represented herein. the looper-carrier plate 5() is provided with a,recess in which is secured bv means of a fastening screw 70 the shank 71of a double-armed thread controlling member of which one arm 72 carriesa laterally extending .take-up bar 73 having verticalnotches in itsopposite ends entered by the down-turned extremities of a transverseguard wire 74, a threadingspace being Aent to provided intermediate thedown-turned lends oi' the guard Wire and the notches in the bar 73 forthe easy introduction of the threads while locking them againstaccidental release in the operation of the mechanism. The second arm 75of the said two-armed member is also provided with a transverse threadengaging bar 76 having upturned ends to confine the under threads led overthe same from the source of lower-thread Supply to the looper-mechanism,for which it serves as a pull-off.

Intermediate the pull-of and take-up bars 70 and 73, respectively, isdisposed the thread-clamp or nippel', herein represented as adapted forengaging independently a plurality of lower threads. The thread nippingdevice is shown herein comprising a pair of su} )porting arms 77 eachsecured by means of a fastening screw 78 upon the bottom of thethread-cavity 79 formed in the top of the bed-'plate and extending alongthe *forward edge of the same, each of such supnorting arms carrving, atits outer end a block 80 forming the upper member or jaw of athreai'l-clamp. Each of the blocks'SO is provided at the thinneropposite ends With vertical tins S1 entering the thread-slots 82 in theends ofthe reflexly bent spring clamping-plate 33 having' its lowermember 83X hung from the block S0 by means of a` pin 84 passing throughsaid block with its head disposed within a countersink 86 in the upperportion of the block (Fig. 9). As represented in Fig. 13, the adjacentfaces of the clamping members 80 and 83 are bevcled, at 'the ends'toadmit of threading more freely. and the fins S1 are by preferencecorrespondingly beveled at theirlower ends for a like purpose, thethrezu'lingslots S2) of the plates S3 being sutliciently wide to y reelyadmit the looper threads betweent ieir edges and the iins S1 while beinglocked between the members S0 and S3 bv such fins. As will be observed.the sustaining pin 84 servesto maintain the looper-threads separated asthev pass between the clamping members 8O and S3.

The intermittent action of the movable clamping member S3 upon the lowerthreads is produced by the engagement upon their yielding lower portions83X of the upwardly extending points of the screws 87 tapped atintervals through the cross-barA 88 of a rocklever S9 fulcrumedintermediate its ends at 90 upon the bearing lug 16 and having at itsopposite end a slot 91 to receive a lateral pin 92 carried b v thefeed-lifting bar 93 upon the end of the rock-shaft 9-1 which has' at itsrearward end the usual lateral arm 95.

having a pitman connection 9G with the` feeddifting crank 97 of themain-shaft 3.

As represented in the United States pat? llf'lllb, No. 863,533. datedAugust ward end by .means of thepin 99 to the feedH rocker arms 100extending upwardly from the rock-shaft 101, is supported near itsforward end by a link-rod'102 having its opposite ends seated in socketsprovided therefor, respectively, in the members 93 and 9S, andmaintained yieldingly in such relation bv means of the connecting spring103. The feed-bar carries the feed-dog 104: having the usual serratedfeeding surfaces entering the feed apertures 69X in thethroat-plate G9to engage the lower face of the fabric. The feed rock-shaftvlOl isprovided with the lat eral crank-arm 105 pivotally connected with. thelower end of the link-bar 100 forked at its upper end to vembrace theslide-block 107 vhtted to the feed-actuating eccentric 10S` the bar 106being fulcrumed at 109 upon lthe free end of a link 110 which is in-turn`ful crumed at 1'11 upon the inner arm of the feed adjustingbellcrank lever112 common to a wellknown style of Singer sewing machine.It will be observed'that, while the feed-dog is in lowered orinoperative position, the lifting bar 93 acts through the rocklever89 tomaintain the thread-clamp closed, and that the thread-clamp istemporarily opened to permit the free passage of the under-thread onlyduring the action of the feed-dog to advance the material.

As will be observed from a reference to the drawings, the lower sidfofthe feed-dog beneath its feeding surfacesisnotched to form a seat for amultiple thread-guiding plate 113 secured thereto by means of fasteningscrews 114` and provided with a seriesi of spaced forwardly projectingguide-fingers *i 115 each disposed upon the needle-loop presenting sideof the needle-path and slightly below the needle-hole. in 'order that.the lead of the lower threads between the guide-eyes .G7 andtheneedle-hole 68 may be at such an inclination as to vinsure the seizureof such thread bythe point'of the barb 63.

Journaled in the bearing lug 16 above the looper rock-shaft 20 forendwise reciprocation, is a spreader rod 116 having sen cured upon itsrearward end a depending arm 1 17 forked at its lower end to embrace agrooved collar 118 secured byqneans'of aY set-screw 119 upon the looperrock-shaft 20. Y

The rod 116 carries at itsA forward end an "upwardly extending arm 120which carries which are secured the corthe lateral movements oftheloopers, where- ,by the spreaders coperate with the loopers in a man-nerto be hereinafter described in spreadingy both the upper and underthread- 's logies. 1

,he pla'tfeO-of the loopen-carrier is pr'o-v ',Vided nearithe sleeve 48with oppositelyl 'projectingthread-guiding pins 124 formed inftheirontet ends with notches which are i substantially radial inrelation to the shaft 20, tovreceive the thinner pins 125 projectingfrom the sleeve 48 and entering the outer 'ends of such notches by whichthey are 'loosely embraced with sufficient clearance to l permit theentrance of the lower threads b in threading While retaining the samesecurely'locked" therein in the .operation of .the machine. Each of thefastening screws 78 is utilized in-securing in position upon the foot ofthe supportingarm 77 a, pair of guide-eyes 126 at the forward end of thewthread-cavity or channel 7 9 in Ithe rearward end of which is located.a thread-guide having a foot portion 127 with an upturned lip 128 formedwith guide-eyes 129 into which the threads are threaded through slits130 extending into the same from the upper edge of the said lip.' Uponthe bed-plate at the -rearward end of the channel 79 is secured asimilar thread-guide 131 formed with eyes 132 entered by threading slits133. The thread-cavity or channel 79 is closed atthe top bymeans of acover-plate 134 connected to the front edge of the bed-plate by means,of the hinges 135.

Upon the needle-bar is.4 adjustably secured by means of a set-sci ew 136a collar 137 formed with a lateral take-up arm 13S having a thread-slot139 to receive thencedie-threads from the series of thread-eyes 140carried -by the bracket 141 whose foot is formed with a slot 142 enteredby the fastening screw 143 to permit ot its vertical adjustment upon thebracket-arm 2.

'At the rearward end of the bracl Iet arm is secured yby means oi' thefastening screws 144, a bracket-145 carrying the oppositely extendingthreaded pins -146 to each -of which is applied a pair oi' tension-disks147 and a spring 148 with a nut 149 for main-- tainingT thepressure'ofthe spring upon the outer tension-disk. Adjacent the 'bracket145 is ya controller-plate 150'containing a u series of cylindricalsockets to each of' which is fitted a thread-engaging plunger A whosestem 153 passes through said socket and carries at its lower end astopcollar 154. The stem ofeach plunger is surrounded. by a spring 155interposed be- 50 tween -the bottom of the plunger and the -bottom otits socket, whereby the plungerl is normally maintained yieldinglyinraised position, as indicated in F ig. 18. Each of the plunger-s 152is formed with longitudinal diamctrically arranged grooves to re- 'theproduction of thefirst stitch.

ceive the adjacent edges of a series ot' flat guide-fingers I156embracing the plungers i and secured by means of fastening screws 157within suitable slots in the upper portion of the plate 150. At oppositesides of the controller-plate 150 are adjustably secured by lmeans ofscrews lthe parallel guideplates 159 and 160 each provided with a seriesof thread-guiding slits 161 extending upwardly from its lower edge andcorresponding in number with theaplungers 152 of the thread-coitroller.

Inthe'use of the machine as fitted with four needles and four' loopersfor the production of four parallel double-chain-stitch seams, the fourneedle-threads are drawn from their respective sources of thread supply,and led each through one-'of the pairs of tension disks 147, thencethrough a ,guideslit 161`of the thread-guidev159, thence above 85 one ofthe controller plungers 152 intermediate the pair of guide-fingers 156,through -one of the guide-slots 161 of the guide 160 to one of theguide-eyes 140 from which it is passed through the thread-slot 139 ofthe 90 take-up arm` 138 and thence downwardly through one of theguide-holes 14 of the needleclamp to the eye'of one of the needles 12.lThe four looper-threadsvare similarlyled from theirl sources of supply95.

each through its respective eye in the guide 131, thence through thecorresponding eye of the guide 128.to the guide-eye 126 at` the'forwardend of the thread-cavity 79, whence it is passed over the pull-olf bar'160 7 6, through one side ofits respective threadclainp, over one ofthe take-up bars 73, and under the corresponding guide bar 124,througlifthe-guide 67, to the needlehole 68 in` the throat-plate 69,through 105 which it emerges, as represented in Fig. 11. To facilitate'the threading of the lower threads, the forward portion ofthethroat-plate is provided with a series of threading slits '63X eachleading from its ,110 front edge into one of the needle` holes, so that,.upon the withdrawal of the bed-plate slide 162 preparatory to the aboveldescribed threading r operation, the passing of the looper-threads fromthe guide-eyes 67 up- 115 wardly through the, bed-'platev openingA inadvance of the throat-plate enables the operator to readily pass thesame through the threading slits 68 into their respective needie-holes68 Ito maintain the proper lead of 120 the lower thread for seizure bythe looper in To provide convenient access for passing 'the lowerthreads `from the guide-member at the bas/e of the bracket-arm to thelooper mechanism, 1 the cover-plate 134 is raisedvas indicated in Fig.10. n i ,Y

The cover-plate V134 having beenshut `to, close the thread-cavity 79,andthe opening above the lcoper mechanism closed bythe looper lis muchgreater in proportion to its distance vfrom the needle-hole, so thatvthe tendencybof the thread-eye 67 in its advance position is to lay theportion of under thread extending frnr the' same. tothe needle-hole inthe groove 64 extending between the looper point 61 and the throat ofthe barb 63; and this tendegcy is mate- A riall'y increased by theemployment of the thread-guiding fingers 115 carried by .the feed-dog,which are located still more closely to the looper than the lower end ofthe needle- .holes 68, and Athus increasev the inclination of the lowerL"thread in relation to the path of movement of the looper.

v One of 'the advantages derived from the present improvement, which 4is-of special importance 1n connection with high-speedmachines, istheshortstroke of the needlebar permitting the employment'of a shortneedle. This is dueto the prompt release of the upper and lower threadloops by the looper and. their immediate drawing up toV the under faceof the material, whereby the needle is enabled to descend without theclose wrapping around it of previously formed and enchaige'dthread-loops, as in ldouble.chain-stitch machines heretoforeconstructed, necessitating a material rise of .the needle to partiallystrip such' enwrapped thread-loops bycontact with the under face of thefabric to permit the throwing out of the new loop of upper-threadconfined to the blade of the needle by such previously formed andenchained threadloops.

As w11] be observed, particularly by refer-i ence to Fig. I4, the bulgeof the looperblade somewhat rearward of the upperthread loopseizingpoint and substantially beneath,` the barb or beard affording thelower-thread loop-seizing beak, gives a taper form to the looper-bladewhich, in the return y movement constituting Vthe second stage of theexcursion of the looper from initial retracted position forwardly andbackwardly -to the same position constitutes an upperthreadloopdetaining portion which insures the drawing of the needle-loopbackwardly upon the point of the spreaderl todistend the samesufficientlyfto obviate any liability of the catching of suchupper-thread loop by theI backwardly extending v'barb or lower-threadloop-seizing beak in the .1 ithdrawal ofthe looper-blade from suchdistended upperthread loop.

A's willbe observed from the drawings;

' in its retracted position, the throat of the i .lower-threadloop-seizing beak 63 of the Y)such loop;'while the sdewise' looper isalmost directly in front of the needle-path, in order'that the leadofthe lower-thread loop held by it in'such'position may be irectijtTboleto enable the needle to descend through vmovable part of themachine, it is desirable that they should be carried by the feedingvthespecial p'artsl required.

in advance of the needle-A movement ofthe looper in its advance to seizea needle-thread loop is intended to insure the proper presentation ofthe lower thread leading from the thread-guiding eye 67 under thethread-guard finger115 to the needle-hole 68 across the blade of thelooper t so as'to bev deflected slightly by the looper barb' m itsadvance to vcause it to snap under the point of the same into thelateral groovel i 4 64 for engagement with such barb on the re# turn ofthe looper in completing its excursion from initial retracted position.y vWhile it is not essential that the threadguard fingers should bemounted upon a fi member, as the latter is lowered at the time thelower-thread loop-seizing beak seizesa bight of lower thread, wherebythe threa'dguard deflects the lower-.thread leadingto 18H theneedle-hole to its lowestl positionto insure the lead of the lowerthread across*f the L loo er path for such operation.v

he machine as above described is readily adapted for slmultaneousproduction of thestationaryV parts is of course necessary seams ofdifferent number and spacing by 'the mere substitution of differentthreadl handling devices, -including needle-clamps and looper-clamps. Nochangewhatever in in' the application of needle-clamps accom- .modatingdiffer-cpt numbers of needles, but

ih order to obiate any unnecessary overang of the forward end of thelooper rock- 1aft,-while providingfor the application iereto oflooper-carriers of different4 lengths, the forward l'ooper shaft-bearingbracket is made longitudinally adjustable,

.so that it maybe shifted to accommodate any looper-carrier of a givenlength. While this adaptation of the machinefor different numbers andspacings of needles and loopers is not particularly intended to providethe operator with means of adjustment of the gage of the machine, it isof material advantage in the original fitting of the machine, asa.single frame may be used for all gages and i numbers "ofi needles andloopers by i proper selection and application thereto of From theforegoing description, seen that the 'present improvement is susceptibleof modification of`the forni and 4arrangementof the several operative'parts -it win be formedptwith a lower-thread seiaing Ycijjirocatingneedle and an adjacent throat and coperating withA Said needle andactuating means therefor to cause it to seize a lower thread, to passloops., thereof through thread loops presented byY the needle, and todisengage itself fromthe lower thread preparatory to seizure of each.

upper-thread loop.

2. In a sewing machine, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanismcomprising a recarryingan upper thread, actuating means for said needle,a non-threaded looper coperating with said needle and formed with anunder-thread seizing beak and an adjacent throat, a`

thread-guide through which the under thread is led across thelooper-path to the lower face of the work, and actuating means wherebysaid looper is caused to enter each thread-loop presentedby the needleand carry through the saine a looper-loop and to release the latterbefore thel succeeding seizure of the lower thread.

3. In a sewing machine, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanismcomprising a reciprocatingv needle carrying -an upper thread, actuatingmeans for said needle, a non-threaded looper coperating with said needleand formed with an under-thread seizing beak and an adjacent permanently4. In a sewing machine,- a work-support, stitch-'forming mechanismcomprising a reciprocating needle, carrying an -upper tlisead, actuatingmeans forse-id needle, a

reciprocating non-threaded looper' copevrat-v ing with said needle andvformed upon thev side adjacent the work-support with an under-threadseizing beak and an adjacent permanently open throatha threadguidethrough which the under thread is led l across the looper-path andintermediate the latter and the work-support totheglower face of thework, and 4actuating`means whereby said looper is caused to cross the.needle-path at one point only and to enter each thi'ead-loop presentedby the.-`1needle and carry through the same a lower-thread loop. I i 5.In a sewing machine, a work-support,- .l

comprising 'alf i'ecijwocating needle carrying `an 1ipper.

stitch-forming mechanism thread, actuating,r means for said needle,-l a,thread-guide through which lan under thread is led to the work, a loopercopeiating with said needle in a path' of mov`ement intersecting theposition occupied by said under thread and formcd'with an opcnthroatedbeak for seizing and carrying a loop of lower thread through aneedlethread loop, and means for reciprocating said looper whereby thelower-thread loop is released thereby in the'advance movement succeedinga needle-thread loop-shedding retrograde movement.

6. In a sewing machine, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanismcomprising a reciprocating needle carrying an upper thread, actuatingmeans for said needle. a non-threaded looper adapted to enterthreadfloopsvpresented by said needle and haying a lower-thread seizingbeak with an adjacent open throat disposed on the side thereof adjacentthe work-support during the advance of the looper through theneedle-thread loops, a thread-guide through which the under-thread isled intermediate the loo er and the work-support to the lower face o thework, and actuating means for imparting operative movements to saidlooper.

7. In. a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocating needlecarrymg an upper thread, actuating means for saidneedle, a non-threaded looper coperating with said needle and formedwith an under-thread seizing beak and an adjacent throat, athreadguideoperatively connected with the looper and adapted to derivetherefrom operative movements propoi'tionate to'those of. the looper andto present the under thread for seizure by the looper, and actuatingmeans whereby said looper is caused to enchain lower-thread vloops with'the upper-thread loops presented by the needle.

8. Ink a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocating needle carrying an upper thread, actuating means for saidneedle,a non-threaded looper coperating with said needle and formed withan under-thread seizing beak and an adjacent throat, a carrier uponwhich said looper is mounted, a thread-guide 'mounted upon vsaidlooper-carrier and adapted to present the under thread for seizure bythe looper, and actuating means whereby said looper is caused to enchainlower-thread loops with the upper-thread loops presented by the needle.

" 9. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming 'mechanism comprising areciprocatin ieyepointed needle carrying an upper t read,

means for reciprocating said needle, a nonthreaded looper having a bladeformed. at

,one lend -Withan upper-thread seizing beak 'and upon the upper sidewith a lower-thread seizing-beakfmeans for effecting the presv entationof thelower thread for seizure by the looper, and mechanism forimparting to the looper a reciprocating movement adjacent tlievneedle-path to cause the looper to perform a complete excursion,including an advance lower-threa d loop-shedcling)r and u ppen-threadloop-seizing movement and a retrograde lower-thread loop-seizing andupper-thread loop-shedding moiement.

10. ln a sewing n'iachine, stitch-lorming,- mechanism comprisingTa'reciprocatiirn' eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread, means forreciprocating said needle, a nonthreaded looper having a lihnle'foi n1edat one end with an upper-thread seizing beak 'and upon the upper side`with an Opp" )sitely directed and upwardly inclined loam-thread seizingbeak, means for insuring the presentation of the lower thread forseizure hy the. looper, and mechanism for imparting' to the loopera-reciprocating movement adjacent the needle-path to cause the looper topertorni a complete excursion, including an advance lower-threadloop-shedding and 11pper-thread loop-.seizing movement and a retrogradelower-thread loop-seizing and upper-thread loop-shedding,T n'ioveinent.'

11. In a sewing' machine, stitch-'formingimechanism comprising; areciprocating; evepointed needle earring an upper thread, means forreciprocghmg said needle, a nonwthreadcdlooper having;- a blade iorn'iedat one end with an upper-thread seizing heal( and npon the upper sidewith an oppositclv directed and upwardly and 4 laterally inclinedlower-thread seizing henk, means for insuringa the presentation ot theloiver thread vi'or seizure by the looper, and mechanism -'forimparting' to the looper a reciprocating movement adjacent thenemlle-path to cause the looper to perform a complete excursion,includingan advance imvfalhread loop-shedding' and mier-threadloop-seining movement z nd a retrograde lower-thread loop-seizing and fupper-tln-ead loop-shedding movement.

12. 1n a sewing,v machine, a stitrh-torming 'mechanism con'iln'ising areciprfaiainjreyepointed needle marrying' an upper vthread. athroat-plate havingi a needle-holeIl means for reciprocating said needlethrough said throat-plate, a non-threaded loo; er=jhavin upper and underthread loop-seizing;healis A and. ino-Vahle in a path adjacent that'ofthe needle beneathll the throat-plate., nieans toreliecting thepresentation ot a loiver thread tor seizure by the looper, a.loop-spreader disposed intermediate the throat-plate and looper andadjacent the needle-hole, and actuating mechanism tor reciprfmitinfr thelooper to enter a loop ot upper thread presented hy Ithe needle anddranT a. loop ot' lower thread through the same and upon. the Spreaderfor passage ot the needle.

13. In a. seiving machine, a stitchforming. mechanism,comprising areeipracatingevepointed needle carryingr an uppe thread^ throat-plate having'a needle-hole` meins lor reciprocating said needle through thethroatplate, a. non-threaded louper having Vupper plate and looperandadjacent the' needle# hole, actuating mechanism for imparting to thelooper endwise reciprocating and sidevvise movements to cause it toenter aloop of upper thread presented by the needle and to v draw a loopof lower thread througl'i the same and upon the spreader for passage olfthe needle, and a connection between the looper' and spreader vvherelgiythe latter is caused to follow the sideWise movements ot the looper.

14. In a sewing machine, a. stitch-forming mechanism comprisingreciprocating eyei'iointed needle carrying an upper thread. a.throat-plate having a needle-hole, means for reciproeatin; 1 V saidneedle through said throat-plate, a reciprocating non-threaded looperhavingv ablade formed with Upper and under thread loop-seizing beals andwith an upper thread-loop detaininzgr portion, said louper heine'adapted to move in va path adjacent that ot the needle beneath thethroat-plate, means tor effecting the presen! Awith suitable 'll'eeding`mechanism and actuating'means therefor, of stitch-forming mechanismcomprising a reciprocating eye-pointed needle carrying an upper thread,a throatplate having a n.eedlehole,means 'for reciprocating said needlethrough the throat-plate, a reciprocating non-threaded loop'er having itblade disposed substantially in the direction of feed and formed withupper and nader thread loop-scizingr healrs, said iooper heine adaptedto move in a path adjacenthat ol? the needle beneath the. threat-plate,ini-ans for effecting the prsentation oil' the lower thread 'tor seizureby the looper` and looper actuating mechanism wlaptefl 'to impart to thelooper a connut-r rcclpracation; suhstantull in the di, .ion oi feed,lor aeh reripol of the needle, and :i saipplel le Yso

looper is caused to advance through an upper-thread loop, seize a bightl of lower thread and draw it through said upperthread loop. Y

16. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread', athroat-plate having a needle-hole,'means for reciprocating said needlethrough the throat-plate, a non-threaded looper having a blade formed atone end with an upperthread seizing beak and upon the upper side with areversely disposed lower-thread loop-seizing beak and movable in apathadjacent that of the needle beneath the throatplate, means for effectingthe presentation of the lower thread for seizure by the looper,anendwise movable rock-shaft upon which the looper is mounted, means forcommunicating rocking movementsv to said rockshaft for imparting to thelooper its endwise loop-seizing and shedding movements and sidewise looppositioning movements,v a longitudinally movable loop-spreader disposedabove the looper, and a connection intermediate said loop-spreader andthe looperrock-shatt whereby said spreader is caused to follow hesidewise movements of the looper and to serve in the retraction of thelooper to first enter and spread the upperthread loop carried by thelatter, to then operate in conjunction withthe lower-thread engagingbeak of the looper as a former for the bight of lower thread into a looand to finally maintain the lower-threa loop distcuded for penetrationby the needlein its succeeding descent.

1T, In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread, m"ans forreciprocating saidneedle, a nonthreaded looper having 'a blade formed atone end with an upper-thread seizing beak and upon the upper side withan oppositely disposed and upwardly and laterally inclincd lower-threadseizing beak and with a lateral thread groove extending from the pointof the upper-thread beak to the throat.

of the lower-thread beak uponthe side toward which the latter isinclined, means for presenting the lower .thread in a ,lineintersectingv the path oi' movement of the lowerthread beak, andmechanism vfor imparting to the looper areciprocating movement adjacentthe needle path to caus"e the looper to perform a complete excursionincludingan upper-thread loop-seizing movement and a return lower-thread loop-seizing and. upperthread loop-shedding movement.

1S. ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread, means forreciprocating said needle, a nonthreaded looper navmg upper'and under-Athread loop-seizing beaks, means for eliecting the presentation of thelower thread for seizure by the looper, mechanism for imparting to thelooper a reciprocatingmovement adjacent the needle-path tov performacomplete excursion, including an advance lower-thread loop-shedding andupperthread loop-seizing movement and a retrograde lower-threadloop-seizing and upper-V open-throated backwardly extending lower-rthread loop-seizing beak, means for effecting the presentation of thelowerl thread for seizure by the looper, mechanism forvimparting to thelooper a reciprocating movement adjacent to the needle-path to cause thelooper to alternately enter and enchain loops of upper and lower thread,and t0 shed during the return movement of the looper the upper-threadloops and the loweralsy thread loops inthe subsequent advance movementsof the looper preparatory to seizure of a succeeding upper-thread loop,and. means for drawing upthelower thread during the advance movement .ofthe looper intermediate the shedding of said lowerthread loop and thesucceeding engagementl of the lower thread by the looper, p

20. In a sewing machine, Stitch-forming mechanism comprisingavreciprocating eyepomted needle carrying an'upper, thread, means forreciprocating saidv needle, an oscillating looper coperating-with Vsaidneedle in the loop-presenting position thereof in enchaining loops ofupper and lower thread, and a lower-thread take-up connected with andmovable substantially in the direction of lead of the thread at itsvpoint of engagement therewith and in 'a circular path around a singleaxis of movement coincident with that of said looper andvnadapted 't0draw up the lower thread durin the advance movement of saidl loopertrough a loop of upper thread presented bythe needle.

21. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper' thread, means forreciprocating said needle,` n. looper adapted to seize a lower threadand pass loops thereof -through thread-loops presented by the needle, areciprocating ca'rrier in whlch said looper is mounted, actuating meansfor said looper-carrier, and a.

ing 4beaks and coperatingwith said needle`` in enchaining loops ot'upperI and lower thread, looper-actuating means, a lowertliread nippingdevice with actuating means therefor to cause it to nip the lower threadwhile the looper lis advancing through an Aupper-thread loop, and an`lmder-tln'ead.

take-up with actuating means for causing it to operatively engage thelower thread while the looper is advancing.

23. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprisingr areciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread, meansv forreciprocating said needle, a reciprocating non-threaded looperhaving anupper-thread seizing b'eak and a reversely directed open-throated ,lowerthread seizing beak and coperating' with said needle in enchainingloopsot upper and lower thread, 1ooper-actuating means, feedingmechanism :omprisinc' a feed-bar carrying a feed-dog, a, feed-roc ierconnected with said feed-bar, and a feed-lifting rock-shaft having aconnection with said vfeed-bar, 'actuating mechanism for the feed-rockerand feed-lifting rock-shaft, whereby the feed-dog is litted and advancedto yleed the work while the louper approaching itsiextreme advanceposition, and is lowered and retracted for a fresh engagement with thework during the return movement of the looper, a lowerthread nippingdevice, an operative connection between said tbreiul-nipping evice andthe feed-lifting rock-shaft, and a lowerthread take-up.

24. ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread,

-- means for recipr-zcating .said needle, a re ciprocating looper havingreversely directed upper and under loop seizing beaks and cooperatingwith said needle in enchaining loops of upper and lower thread, anoscillating carrier upon `which said loo-per is mounted, lmper-actuatingmeans, a lower- Ithread nipping device with means for 'actuating it, andunder-thread.take-up and pull-oli' devices mounted upon and moving withsaid looper carrier and adapted to engage the under-thread upon oppositesides of the said nipping device, and operative connectionsintermediate'- said take-up and pull-oli' and the loopei" whereby theyare caused' to operate simultaneously and synf flironouslyv with thelooper.

25. ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocating'eyeipointed needle carrying an upper thread, means forreciprocating said needle, avlooper having reversely .directed upper andunder loop seizing healts and cooperating with said needle in enchainingloops of upper and lower thread, a reciprocating carrier in whichsaid'looper is mounted, actuating means for said looper-carricr, alowerthread nipping device with means for actuating it, a two-armedthread-controlling member mounted upon said looper-carrier and embracingsaid nipping device, a transverse take-up bar carried by one arm and atransverse pull-olibar carried by the other arm of said n'iemher andadapted to engage the lower thread upon the opposite sides ot saidthread-nipping device.

2li. .ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising arecil'irocating needle-bar, and a' plurality oi eye-pointedneedlcsmoimled thereon and caca carrying an upper thread, means forreciprocating said needle-bar, a. looper rock-shaft and; -means l'oractuating the same, a looper-carrier mounted uponv said rock-shaft andformed with a cross-bar having an angular channel. parallel with saidrock-shaft, a louper-clamp member forming a cap for closing said channelat the top and provided in one edge 'with a series ot parallelloopershank slots opposed to one of the side walls ol? said channel,means for removably securing said cap in position upon said crossbar,and ay series ot loopers having angular shanks fitted to said channeland each inserted inone ot the slotsv of said clampmember, each of saidloopers being adapted to cooperate with its respective needle in theproduction of stitches.

27. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocating needle-ban, and a plurality of eye-pointed needles mountedthereon and each carrying an upper thread, means for reciprocating saidneedle-bar, a looper rock-shaft and means for actuating the same, alooper-carrier mounted upon said rock-shaft and formed with a radiallyextending arni or web carrying a looper-clamp, a plu ality ot `loopersremovably secured in said clamp and each adapted to cooperate with itsspective needle in the production4 of stitches, a vseries ofthread-guides and a multiple take-up device carried bysaid-looper-carrier, a guide-pin carried by the radial arm or web ofsaidloope1.carrier and extending from both faces of the same andprovided in,

,its extremities with radially disposed thread notches, and pins alsocarried by said loopercarrier and enteringland loosely. embraced by thenotches of said laterally extending guide-pins and affording threadingapertures at opposite sides` of said radial arm or lld web forintroduction. of threads led from said take-up to said threadpuides.

28.411 a sewin machine, the combination withv Stitch-forming mechanismcomprising a reciprocating eye-pointed needle carrying an upper thread,a throat-plate havingv a needle-holc, means for reciprocating saidneedle through said throatplate, Aa non-v thr`eaded louper having upperand under thread loop-seizing bea-ks, and moving in a path beneath thethroatplate adjacent that of the needle, a lower thread-guide below thepath of movement of the looper through which the lower thread is led tothe needlehole, a thread-guard spaced beneath the throat-plate and the'path 'of movement of said looper, and louper-actuating mechanism forcausing said looper to alternately engage and enchain the upper andlower threads in the produc tion of stitches.

Q9. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismcomprising a reciprocating eye-pointed needle carrying an upper thread,a throat-plate having a needle-hole, means forv reciprocating said centthe needle-hole and looper-actuating mechanism forcausing said` looperto alternately engage and enchain the upper' and lower threads in theproduction of stitches.

30. ln agisewing machine, the combination with stitchfforming mechanismcomprising a 'reciprocating needlebar havlng a plui rality ofeye-pointed needles each carrying each having an upper an up er thread,a throat-plate having a plurality of'needle-holes, means forreciprocating said needles through said throatplate, a plurality ofnon-threaded loopers and an under-thread 'loop-seizing beak and movingin a path beneath the throat-plate and adjacent its respective needle,feeding mechanism comprising a feed-dog, a feed-bar carrying the saineand means for actuating it, a plurality of lower thread-,guides eachdisposed below the path of movement of one o'f said loopers throughwhich a lower thread is led tothe needle-hole entered by one of saidneedles, a thread-guard formed of a plate having a series of. slotsproducing a plurality of thread-guiding lingers each disposed adjacent aneedle-hole, said thread-guard plate intermediate the needle;- hole andsaid thread-guide for deflecting thej lower thread leading from thelatter across' ybeing secured to and carried by said feed-V dog, andlooper-actuating mechanism for causing said loopers to alternatelyengage and enchain the upper and lower threads in the production ofstitches.

31. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising areciprocatin needle-bar, and a plurality of eye-pointed needles mountedthereon and cach carrying an upper thread, means for rcciprocatin saidneedle-bar, a throat-plate formed wit a lower thread across the path ofmovement of its respective looper into one of said needle-holes, andmechanism for imparting l movement adg to the loopers a reciprocatin'acent their respective neede paths wherey they are caused each toperform a complete excursion during the rise of the needles including anupper-thread loop-seizing movement and a return lower-thread loopaplurality of needle-holes corresponding in,

seizing and upperthread loop-shedding movement.

32. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame comprisingiabed-plateand an ovcrhangng bracket-arm, of a main-shaft mounted in said`bracket-arm, a. needle'bar mounted for vertical movement in saidbracket-arm, operative connections between said main-shaft andtheneedlebar'for re ciprocating the latter, a plurality of needlescarried by said needle-bar, a fixed shaftbearing depending from saidbed-plate, a longitudinally adjustable bracket depending from saidbed-plate and affording a movable shaft bearing, a looper rock-shaftjournaled at the rearward end 'in said fixed bearing and near theforward end in said-adjustable shaft-bearing, a plurality of loopersmounted upon' the forward portion of said rockshaft and adapted tocopcrate Vwith said needles in Vthe production of stitches, and

operative connectionsv intermediate the inain-L V shaft and the rearwardportion of said.' looper rock-shaft for imparting operative movementsthereto.

In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame comprising a bed-plateand an' oveihanging bracketarm, of a main-shaftA j ournaled inv saidbracket-arm and provided in its rearward portion with a looi'ier-actu-y'ating ciank, a needle-bar carrying a needle?,

and operative connections intermediate the forward portion of saidmain-shaft and needle-bar journaled beneath said bed-plate, a llooperupon the forwardend of said rock-shaft cof lll for imparting verticalrecintocations 'to the latter, a looper rock-shaft operating with saidneedle in the lpro'ducno.

tion of stitches, a-crank upon the rearwardend of seid rock-shaft, apair of pivotally connected toggle links, one of which is mounted upon afixed fulcrum and the other is pivotally connected with said-crank, af

second pair of pivotally connected toggle links of which the one ismounted upon a fixed ulcrurn` and the other is operatively connectedwith the first named pair of vtoggle links at their junction, and a.pitman rod affording an operative connection between the junction of thesecond named pair of toggle links and the actuating crank uponv themain-shaft.

3l. In a sowing machine, thefcombination with a main-shaft, of aneedle-bar carrying Y a needle, operative connections intermediate saidneedle-bar and the main-shaft, a looper rock-shafta :1 looper thereoncopereting With said needle the production of' stitches, a crank uponsaid looper rockshaft, two pairs of toggle links of-Which the extremeend of one of the component links is connected with the junction of thecomponent links of the other pair, While an extremity of one of thecomponentlinks or the second-named pair is pivotally conneucted with thesaid crank upon the looper rock-shaft, and an operative connectionintermediate said main-shaft and thev pivotal connection of thecomponent links of the irst-named pair, whereby the pivotal connectionsof the component meinbersp both toggle links are reciprocated across theimaginary line joining the extremt ,s of the links of each pair intheactuation of said looper shaft through its connecting crank.

ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocatingeyepointedineedle adapted' to carry. upper threald, means forreciprocntingfmd'needle` l a non-threaded looper constructed with eblade having all its parte rigidly 'connected together in ixed relationand provided with upper and under thread loopseizing beake of the lowerthread for seizure by the looper,

-and koper-actuating mechanism'adapted to Vimpart to the looper a.complete operative excursion or each,l reciprocafton of the needle forencheinment of e single upperthread loop with e single lowenthread loopin the production of a; double-chain-stitclL 36.' In" e sewing machine,stitch-orming mechanism' .comprising a reciprocating eyeof movement ofsaid loopercnd suhstemf tially inthe direction of leed of the'threeclacross-the same and, adapted to'draw up the lower thread during theadvance movement of said looper through eloop of upper thread presentedby thek needle.

In testimony whereof,- I have signed. my name to this specification, inthe presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

ALBERT H. DE VOE. Witnesses:

D. P. Bumm,- H. J. MILLER.

d iii and moving in a path adjacent' that of the needle, meansforeecting the "presentation,

